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5-year Rubber Replacement

in 912 / 914 Technical Questions 9 years ago

  • Re: 5-year Rubber Replacement

    by » 9 years ago

    Specifically after thinkig about this some more the teflon hose was not rated in the specs for suction. The side wall is just to thin to support itself reliably in a vacuum especially at higher temps.
      
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  • Re: 5-year Rubber Replacement

    by » 9 years ago

    My 80hp Rotax 912 SN 4005199 is installed on a 1998 Rans S-7 Courier (experimental) with under 400 hours TT. I intend to update the Rotax (rubber-wise). Today looking things over I discovered a completely severed (rear lower) rubber buffer under the ignition modules (grounding me). The other two ignition rubber buffers on the sides don’t look great. Engine mounts show dry rot. One carb socket (last week – I replaced both with overpriced Rotax sockets) was completely severed 200 degrees around (JBM Brand), but the engine still produced smooth power at 5200 RPM (how is this possible?), but had became difficult to start (I assume high manifold vacuum sucking air not fuel) – which is what got me moving on this quest. My early SN Rotax appears lower than some of the SN listings on 912 parts lists.

    Questions:

    1) What size firesleeve fits Gates Barricade ¼” fuel line? And are there more economical brands (I see others exist)? I see ¼” Barricade listed as ½” OD, so does this mean I use -3 (1/2” ID), or -4 (9/16” ID), and does it matter if it is loose fitting or is this considered sloppy; or is it difficult to fit into too tight a sleeve?

    2) How about using Gates Barricade ½” for the oil lines? And what size Firesleeve works best for oil lines? Last year I used Parker 12.5mm with no firesleeve, but do not like the looks of the worm clamps I put on too tight (I will use constant tension and do it over and use firesleeve).

    3) Not ruber, but... The stator wires insulation have deteriorated and cracked (which has me questioning the other wires from the triggers). How do I go about replacing the stator wires (they are not listed as a separate part from the stator)? I suppose I could get braided shielding and fire up my soldering iron? Has anyone done this? My ignition works fine.

    4) What is best coolant lines/hoses? Do I need to buy Rotax pre-formed over-priced hoses (except to and from the cooler)?

    5) Does the list Roger gave to CPS (on CPS website) including all small piece parts that might stop me dead from continuing (like one little o-ring or gasket I might forget to order)?

    It would be more than great to see a video going over all the rubber stuff even though there are many variations.

    This is more a comment. I understand aircraft parts cost more than land vehicles for reliability and perhaps liablity, but why so much more! Rotax 877 660 Gearbox Puller is over $500 and never goes into the sky flying. I built my own of my own design from junk in my shop. This level of price gouging puts question on really necessary stuff like critical rubber replacement. Ok, enough said, now I need to place an order for rubber parts (quesions above).

    Thanks,
    Dennis
      
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  • Re: 5-year Rubber Replacement

    by » 7 years ago

    I have heard that the 5-year rubber replacement is no longer required. I have a 912 ULS on a Rans S12S with about a 1000 hours on it. Have replaced a few lines as needed. But the online CPS site still has a list of parts for this service, costing over $3000. Do I still need to do it?
      
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  • Re: 5-year Rubber Replacement

    by » 7 years ago

    It still says it's required in the Line Maint. manual section 2.
    You should do it, but parts can be obtained for far far less than $3K.
    You never know when a hose will fail so since you can't pull over to the curb it;'s better safe than sorry especially if you take any passengers. They trust you to do the right thing and not get them hurt.

    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell

      
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  • Re: 5-year Rubber Replacement

    by » 7 years ago

    Roger,
    Thanks for info. Where would you suggest looking for less expensive parts? Most hoses are metric.
      
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