Hello all. Slight revisit to a topic from a while back. What's the consensus of opinion on fitting weaker return springs to the Bing carbs? Removing the springs entirely seemed to be a solution to throttle creep, but on research I can appreciate that having some counter tension is desirable for keeping the carbs synced. See a number of vendors selling weaker-than-rotax springs, and wonder if anyone has fitted them and what the field experience is. Thanks, mike.
Hi Roger. The throttle lever has a friction nut which is ground adjustable, but no vernier-type adjustment. To prevent creep, it has to be so tight I cannot adjust the power smoothly, thus my question about replacing the carb return springs. Help me out on this one: there is no creep on the ground, just in the air, and perhaps creep is not the right word: if I close the throttle forcibly on final approach, I get idle power, but when I take pressure off the lever, it adds about 400 rpm. I've always wanted auto throttle but this is ridiculous.
Hello Mike,
If your throttle stop (hand piece) is behind the carby stop(idle stop) then you can force the carby lever to bend and drop the revs slightly.
Releasing your hand from the throttle will allow the bent throttle arm to spring back....pulling the throttle handle slightly open.
Something to check anyway......Roger can correct me if this is not a possibility....
Cheers...
I bought the lighter springs from Aircraft Spruce when I rebuilt my csrbs last year and they are a great improvement over the stock springs. With the stock spring there was so much tension that I had to almost lock the throttle friction nut to stop the creep. The lighter springs will still creep slowly but you can adjust the friction nut slightly and it stops the creep yet you can adjust the throttle easily. They're crazy expensive $13.00 each but worth it.
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