Do you have to do the full mechanical and pneumatic sync at the 100hr? Seems to run great and I’d hate to screw that up by resetting all the screws, etc, per the manual. Is it safe to just check pneumatically?
Sam Purpura wrote:I’ve been doing the pneumatic every 100 hours. I balance at cruising rpm because that’s where most of the operating is and the balance seems to change at different rpm’s.
I "balance" in the range 2500 - 4000 rpm.
Like you, I find changes over the range but work on the assumption that the greatest vacuum is in the lower rpm and it is here that differences will be most marked and have the greatest impact (on smooth idle). I am obsessive about getting the balance just right at this rpm.
Get your low rpm right and differences up the range will be small.
The balance tube will, to some extent, accommodate small differences in balance that are probably due to throttle (Bowden) cable movement/binding ie not always delivering exactly the same movement on both sides for each actuation.
I have a "winge" about the Rotax throttle cable adjustment mechanism - it is unnecessarily fiddley - the screw mechanism (length of outer sleeve) should be into a threaded "fixed" point, with a single locking nut. With a single spanner (8mm?) the single lock nut can be loosened, the adjuster turned by finger pressure and the lock nut applied to secure in position.
